Radon is estimated to cause thousands of lung cancer deaths in the U.S. each year. The EPA recommends that you test your home for radon and install a mitigation system if the level is 4 picocuries per liter or higher. Radon levels less than 4 pCi/L still pose a risk, and in many cases may be reduced. So what is the correct way to test for radon?
1. Purchase a do-it-yourself short-term test radon test kit from your local home supply store. Be sure to read the directions carefully and follow them exactly. These DIY kits are inexpensive and can be very accurate if used properly.
2. If the test comes back marginal or high, hire a local independent building inspector(here or here) or certified radon tester to do a long-term test.
There is no known safe level of radon, so if there is radon present take actions to reduce it. There are several methods to reduce radon in your home, but the most common is a vent system and fan which pulls radon from beneath the house and vents it outside. You can also try to seal all the gaps and cracks, create positive air pressure in your basement, add a fresh air exchange, or introduce fresh air ventilation into the space.
As we learn more about building science homes are being built tighter through good construction details. This is a GOOD thing. The new worry is that many products used in homes off gas chemicals known in the industry at Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC’s). These chemicals have adverse short and long term health impacts on the people living in your home. While we are still learning a lot about what chemicals are safe – if any – you should be sure to use those proven products that are available with a NO-VOC option. Paints, caulks, adhesives, stains, and joint compounds are just the starting point. Discuss with your architect the options, which products seem to be working and which have durability issues, and make wise decisions for your family. Product selection along with a appropriate ventilation system in your home will lead to better health for everyone living there.
In a recent Facebook post, I included this statement:
Caulking is one of the best protections for Healthy Indoor Air Quality in a home.
Which led to this question:
How does caulking help with healthy indoor air-quality?
The answer came from Insulation and building science expert, Ken Wells of Elite Insulation.
Air infiltration can account for 30% or more of a home’s heating and cooling costs, and contribute to problems with moisture, noise, dust, and the entry of pollutants, insects, and rodents. Reducing infiltration can significantly cut annual heating and cooling costs, improve building durability, and create a healthier indoor environment. According to a 2005 National Institute of Science and Technology (NIST) study, an energy savings of up to 62% can be realized by undertaking specific air tightness measures. In addition to energy loss, air infiltration reduces occupant comfort, interferes with efficient operation of mechanical systems, reduces indoor air quality, and contributes to condensation and moisture damage in the building envelope system. Using tight construction methods is said to be like closing a hole in your wall the size of an open window.
According to the Air Barrier Association of America, a “typical 2,500 square foot home has more than a half mile of cracks and crevices.” Unsealed, about a third of the air leakage in a home occurs through the floors, walls, and ceilings.
1. Equitable Use – The design is useful and marketable to people with any ability. (Who wants to have to bend down to find that missing sock, make things easier for everyone)
2. Flexibility of Use – The design accommodates a wide range of individual preferences and abilities. (Grab bars don’t have to look institutional)
3. Simple and Intuitive Use – Use of the design is easy to understand, regardless of the user’s experience, knowledge, language skills, or education level. (a programmable thermostat that learns your patterns)
4. Perceptible Information – The design communicates necessary information effectively to the user, regardless of ambient conditions or the user’s sensory abilities. (design should allow everyone to feel comfortable)
5. Tolerance for Error – The design minimizes hazards and the adverse consequences of accidental or unintended actions. (don’t get burned by hot water or let your kids get burned)
6. Low Physical Effort – The design can be used efficiently and comfortably with a minimum of fatigue. (Ever wanted to sit down for a bit after a long day while starting dinner prep)
7. Size and Space for Approach and Use – Appropriate size and space is provided for approach, reach, manipulation, and use regardless of user’s body size, posture, or mobility. (Wouldn’t it be nice to be able to move that furniture around the room, up the stairs, or out the door without taking out a window)
I have posted on the topic of CSI in the past, and with another Certification Exam deadline looming, it is time to do it again. In the construction industry, it is easy to put your head down and try to avoid problems by showing up on time, doing what is expected, and performing to the best of your ability. The problem is, as I have heard it so many times – “CONSTRUCTION HAPPENS!” What do you do when just doing what you ‘thought’ was expected is not what was actually expected? What do you do when your interpretation of the documents is not the owner’s interpretation? How do you show potential clients that you understand how the process works and that you are a leader in the industry that deserves the opportunity? One good way is by earning certifications through the Construction Specifications Institute.
I am a “Certified Construction Technologist.” This is the first step in the CSI certification ladder. In the competitive economy that we face, I find that we have to prove ourselves time and again that we understand the construction process. CSI’s professional qualifications do just that for you. CDT (Construction Document Technologist exam) is the “foundation you need to gain the competitive advantage” you need in today’s economy.
I encourage you to take the step and register for the CDT exam today. I can tell you it has benefited my career growth, allowed me to solve problems before they became big problems, and has saved my clients money.
Your heating (ventilation) and cooling system uses more energy than anything else in your home. There are many things that could hamper the effectiveness of the system costing you money and comfort every day. Finding places that are causing problems and costing you resources is the first step in getting your home’s systems right, cutting your energy usage, and increasing comfort around the home.
One place you might not think to look to fix interior comfort is on the exterior. The exterior unit must have proper air flow around the entire unit. Cut back overgrown vegetation to give the proper clearance to the units. This allows the unit to function as designed.
The ducts inside your home (attic, basement, and crawlspace) should be sealed with mastic, NOT duct tape.
Ducts in the crawl space should have proper insulation around them to prevent sweating.
In a recent Facebook post, I included this statement:
